Baby Chicken Care and Brooder Area
Salmon Faverolle
Well, the chicks came today. The post office called me at 8:15 in the morning with the sound of little peeps coming over the phone.
I ordered them from Welp's Hatchery in Iowa. They had quite a trip ahead of them especially considering that they were shipped the day they hatched.
I ordered them to be immunized for Marek (Range Paralysis) It was only 10cents per chick. I also ordered Biotin (Vitamins/Electrolyte) Stress pack and Terramycin soluble. These will be added to their water.
Brooding Area:
I've moved the six older chickens into the smaller coop and I've cleaned out all the old bedding and nesting material. I disinfected the coop with bleach. It's a good idea to do this at least 10 days before the arrival of the new chicks.
We set up bales of straw to make a smaller brooding area. At two weeks of age I removed the bales of straw and let them have the whole coop. I covered the floor with about six inches of wood chips. (Never use paper, it's too slippery and the chicks could break their legs) They should have one half square foot per chick of floor space. That way they have room to get away from the heat lamp if it gets too hot.
I hung the heat lamp with chain from the ceiling, that way I can raise and lower it. The heat lamp should be on for at least 24 hours before the chicks arrive, so that the area can heat up to 95 degrees. I put a thermometer 2-3 inches from the bottom of the floor to keep track of the temperature. I will drop the temperature by 5 degrees per week down to 70 degrees, after that the chicks shouldn't need the heat lamp, if they're well-feathered.
Be sure to keep all drafts away from the chicks. I covered the windows with blueboard and the coop itself is insulated.
The chicks should be provided with 2.5 inches of feed space and 1 inch of water space per chick. This should be expanded as they grow.
Once they are full grown, they should have 2 feet of floor space per chicken for standard sizes and 1-1.5 feet for bantams.
Food and Water:
Unchilled water should be in the waterers when the chicks arrive. I added their stress pack (follow package directions) and the terramycin(1 teaspoon to one gallon of water) and 1/4 c. of sugar, let the chicks drink this for 1 hour before giving them any food. Continue the Terramycin(1 teaspoon per gallon of water) for the second day. After that, give clean fresh water.
I'll be feeding a medicated 20% protein chick starter food for about 8 weeks. The medicated food helps to prevent coccidiosis, which can kill most of you're flock if it hits. After 8 weeks the chicks have developed a natural immunity to it. Then I'll switch to a nonmedicated chick starter or an 18% protein chick grower food for another 8 weeks. Medicated feed should not be fed for more than 12 weeks.
At 16 weeks of age, they will go to a 16% protein complete layer food. At this time, I add treats to their diet, such as scratch and scrap fruits and vegetables.
Watch out for dried up poop (pasting up) on the vent area. If you notice some gently peel it away. If it is left on, they could get constipated and die.
They are so cute, they look like little marshmellows with legs.
Brooder in the Coop
I also provided them with a couple of low roosts and some other things like a block of wood, a couple of rocks and sticks for them to play with. That way they will keep too busy to start pecking on each other.
Last year we used bins for the brooder. We put the bins in our garage. It's a walkout, so it was warm enough.
It worked out well. We clamped the heat lamp to a sawhorse and covered the floor of the bin with wood shavings.
So they wouldn't get out, we covered the bins with fencing. Be sure to cover the edges of the fence with duct tape, it's pretty sharp.
The chicks are older now and going outside.
Click to take a peek at them.
Copyright Cynthia Mikses All Rights Reserved